On Consistancy and McStarbucks: Portafilter.net Podcast 3
Okay, if you haven't heard the conversation on coffee consistancy, let me brief you on my image of the problem. In this corner, Consistancy holds the title as the standard to which all the nationwide coffeeshops aspire. In the other corner, the third wave contender, Quality is undefeated amoungst prosumer baristas and roasters. Tonite we have a large panel of judges, the consuming public.
The case for Quality is simple, the best available at all times, be this better or worse than last week. Certainly we all want some quality, otherwise I would frequent the shop that pours 6 ounce doubles as often as Starbucks, and Starbucks as often as the local roaster. We all want some quality, even is consistant blends.
For Consistancy, the case is more complex. As individual bleans change over time, some argue the roaster or blender should attempt to maintain the characteristics of the resulting product. Which characteristics often goes unmentioned, and I think this is one element to our answer. What defines a coffee in the consumer's mind is the price, brand, and flavor. The common conception in this post-Ford world is that a product with the same price and brand is exactly the same.
But there as the markets change, so do most products. Scotch whiskey's is a world similar to the one discussed, and provides a good comparison. When one buys a bottle of Johnny Walker Red Label, the flavor is distinctive. Every time a variable is changed before blending, the master blender works to recreate this flavor. With every bottle of a single malt Scotch, the formula is different. This year may have a rather different flavor than last year's released bottles. Yet both can thrive.
The customers who want to risk and appreciate the differences often choose a single malt. These differences can add complexity beyond the mere flavors of the drink.
But there is another market which needs comparison. For those who travel, places like Starbucks and McDonalds provide a comforting, even homey consistancy unavailable elsewhere. Who knows how the mystery shop might misinterpret my assumptions for a Kung Pao Beef. We don't live amongst a pure ideal of shops which will have even similar ideas about quality. Even then just because you think your product is best doesn't mean I will.
But you are dead wrong if you think I'm in the Consistancy camp. I love my roaster's profile of his Monsooned Malabar AA, and love to try out the picks of this years crop. But I know my favorite roaster. His bleans are well labeled, and he lets us know when beans change. But I order Verona at Starbucks if I'm out of town. I don't always have time to sort through the roasts, origins, age of roast and pick. Most of the time I'm lucky to get a Full City's worth about the bean.
But you don't have to sell to the lowest common denominator. Even pepsi does seasonal blends. Even Budweiser has a born on date. Let your customers decide, and they will.
posted by Joseph Anthony Pasquale Holsten @ 12:12 AM
